Grand Canyon
There are beautiful, awe-inspiring places throughout the American Southwest.
Then there is the Grand Canyon.
No photograph, drone video, or panoramic overlook can truly prepare you for your first glimpse into its immense depths. Standing on the rim has a way of instantly shrinking life's daily worries while expanding your perspective. The canyon reminds us how small we are in the best possible way.
For hikers, the experience becomes even more profound. Descending below the rim transforms the Grand Canyon from something you admire into something you inhabit. Each switchback carries you deeper into an entirely different world, where towering walls reveal nearly two billion years of Earth's history and every mile feels like traveling through time.
Entire guidebooks have been written about the Grand Canyon, and rightly so. Rather than attempting to cover every remote corner, this destination guide focuses on the places that most visitors can realistically experience without specialized technical skills or demanding backcountry logistics.
While most people think only of the South Rim and the North Rim, the Grand Canyon is actually much more expansive than those two iconic destinations. Other areas—including Grand Canyon West and Diamond Creek Road, which provides rare vehicle access to the Colorado River—offer completely different ways to experience the canyon. I'll be adding guides to those regions in the future. For hikers seeking one of the Southwest's most extraordinary adventures, you'll also find a separate destination guide devoted to nearby Havasupai.
Exploring and Hiking
South Rim
The South Rim is the Grand Canyon most people know.
Open year-round and easily accessible from Flagstaff and Williams, it offers the canyon's most iconic viewpoints, the greatest variety of services, and the classic hiking routes that descend toward the Colorado River.
It is also, by far, the busiest part of the national park. During holidays and much of the year, viewpoints along the rim can be crowded, shuttle buses fill quickly, and parking often requires patience. Despite the crowds, however, the South Rim remains one of the most awe-inspiring places on Earth, and for first-time visitors, it is an unforgettable introduction to the canyon.
Most hikes here fall into one of two categories: leisurely walks along the rim or significant descents into the canyon. The elevation loss can make these hikes deceptively challenging, so understanding what you're getting into is essential.
North Rim
If the South Rim is the Grand Canyon's grand stage, the North Rim feels like its quiet sanctuary.
Rising nearly 1,000 feet higher in elevation than the South Rim, the North Rim enjoys cooler summer temperatures, dense forests of spruce, fir, and aspen, and a noticeably slower pace. Because of its remote location and shorter operating season, it receives only about 10% of the visitors that the South Rim welcomes each year.
I've visited several times—always over holiday weekends—and have always been amazed by the solitude. Away from the immediate lodge area, it's common to have overlooks entirely to yourself. And the hiking trails remain remarkably peaceful compared with almost anywhere else in the Southwest.
The hiking experience is different as well. While there are certainly strenuous descents into the canyon, the North Rim also offers several beautiful forest and rim hikes with much gentler elevation changes, making it an excellent destination for visitors who want spectacular scenery without committing to a major canyon descent.
In 2025, tragedy struck when a wildfire destroyed the historic Grand Canyon Lodge along with many of the surrounding cabins and park buildings. I happened to be camping there when the fire started, and had the great fortune to dine at the historic lodge on the last night of my trip. Although the campground has reopened and many areas remain accessible, several trails continue to be affected while the National Park Service works toward recovery. I'll be updating this guide with firsthand observations following my upcoming visit.
The North Rim has lost one of its most beloved landmarks, but not its magic. In many ways, its quiet forests, peaceful viewpoints, and remarkable solitude remain exactly what have always made it such a special place.
The South Rim may offer more dramatic vistas, easier access, and, for now, better amenities. But if solitude is what calls to you, the North Rim offers something increasingly rare in our national parks. I find it to be simply sublime.
Featured Hikes
South Kaibab to Phantom Ranch
Descending nearly a vertical mile into the Grand Canyon, spending the night beside the Colorado River and climbing all the way back out is simply one of the greatest hiking adventures in the Southwest. It takes planning, preparation and a coveted overnight reservation or permit — but this is one experience absolutely worth the effort.
Things to Know
Summer temperatures on the canyon floor can exceed 110°F, even when temperatures on the rim feel pleasant. Always check the forecast for both the rim and the inner canyon.
The North Rim sits roughly 1,000 feet higher than the South Rim and is typically open only from mid-May through mid-October.
If you hope to stay inside the park or camp on the rim—or especially if you dream of spending a night at Phantom Ranch—make reservations as far in advance as possible.
Following the 2025 North Rim wildfire, some facilities and trails may remain temporarily closed while reconstruction continues. Check current conditions before your visit.
Curious about the Skywalk? I'll also be adding a future guide to Grand Canyon West, operated by the Hualapai Tribe.
Looking for one of the Southwest's most unforgettable backpacking destinations? Visit my Havasupai Destination Guide.
When to Visit
One of the great advantages of the South Rim is that it can truly be visited year-round. If your primary goal is sightseeing, there is no bad time to experience the Grand Canyon. If you plan to hike, however, I would avoid descending into the canyon during the heat of summer and would carefully check trail and weather conditions before visiting in winter.
As with much of the American Southwest, spring and fall are generally the ideal seasons to visit. Temperatures are more comfortable, hiking conditions are excellent, and the changing light makes the canyon especially beautiful.
The North Rim is a different story. Because it sits nearly 1,000 feet higher in elevation than the South Rim, it receives significant snowfall and is typically open only from mid-May through mid-October. That higher elevation also makes it one of my favorite summer hiking destinations in the Southwest. Daytime temperatures on the rim rarely seem to climb much above 85°F, making it an excellent escape when many nearby destinations have become uncomfortably hot.
Of course, temperatures rise dramatically as you descend into the canyon, so anyone hiking below the rim should still prepare for extreme heat. But for visitors who prefer to stay on the rim, the North Rim offers several wonderful moderate hikes through beautiful forests and along spectacular canyon overlooks.
Where to Stay
South Rim
If you're a camper, Mather Campground is my recommendation. Although it is a large campground, most campsites offer a surprising amount of privacy, and I've always enjoyed camping there. Its location is another major advantage—you can easily walk or take the shuttle to many of the South Rim's viewpoints and trailheads without ever moving your car.
There are also several lodges within Grand Canyon Village. In my opinion, however, you shouldn't come expecting a luxury resort experience. I stayed at Yavapai Lodge once and wasn't particularly impressed. Personally, I would much rather camp and spend my money on additional adventures. For lodge reservations (get on the mailing list for regular discounts on stays), click here.
If I were going to splurge on lodging, I would choose El Tovar. Sitting directly on the rim, it remains the Grand Canyon's most iconic hotel and offers a truly special setting. It has become quite expensive, however, with rooms exceeding $500 per night during much of the year.
North Rim
At the time of this writing, only the North Rim Campground has reopened following the devastating 2025 wildfire, and it remains one of my favorite campgrounds anywhere.
The campground sits directly along the Transept Trail, with several campsites perched right on the rim of the Grand Canyon. Waking up in your tent and stepping outside to views into the canyon is an experience that's difficult to put into words.
Even for a National Park Service campground, it feels remarkably peaceful and spacious, with many sites offering excellent privacy. When operating normally, showers are also available for campers. Reservations typically fill many months in advance through Recreation.gov, so don't hesitate if you see availability.
Sadly, the historic Grand Canyon Lodge and the North Rim cabins were destroyed in the 2025 fire. Hopefully newly built lodge and cabins take even greater advantage of their extraordinary setting. I always dreamed of staying in one of the canyon-view cabins, relaxing on the small porch while watching the changing light across the canyon.
There are additional hotels and campgrounds outside both the South and North Rims. While these can be good options when accommodations inside the park are unavailable, I strongly prefer staying within the park whenever possible. It creates a far more immersive experience, allows you to enjoy sunrise and sunset without a long drive, and, at the South Rim, lets you avoid the entrance lines that can become quite lengthy during busy seasons.