The Hike

There are several ways to hike from the South Rim to the bottom of the Grand Canyon, but my choice is South Kaibab down and Bright Angel back up.

South Kaibab is spectacular from beginning to end. The trail follows an exposed ridgeline into the canyon, providing enormous views as you descend through layer after layer of Grand Canyon geology. There is no water along the trail, so start early and carry plenty.

After reaching the Colorado River and crossing the Black Bridge, you arrive at the wonderfully improbable oasis of Phantom Ranch and Bright Angel Campground, tucked beside Bright Angel Creek at the very bottom of the canyon.

For the climb out, take the Bright Angel Trail. It’s longer than South Kaibab, but offers more shade and potential water stops along the way. The final miles involve seemingly endless switchbacks — but eventually, almost unbelievably, you’ll find yourself standing back on the rim.

Slow and Steady

I was intimidated by the climb out, even as a strong hiker. In reality, I found it surprisingly manageable for one simple reason: I gave myself the entire day.

I started around 6 AM, maintained a slow and steady pace, rested frequently, ate plenty of snacks and kept up with my water and electrolytes. I never rushed, and the climb was honestly a breeze.

I’ve seen people practically running up and down the canyon, and I’ve never understood the appeal. What is there to prove?

This is one of the most extraordinary landscapes on Earth. Give yourself time to stop, look around and truly experience where you are.

Make It Two Nights If You Can

If you can secure two nights at the bottom, do it.

I only had one night at Phantom Ranch and still found the trip completely worthwhile, but I would have loved a full day to simply enjoy being down there — walking beside Bright Angel Creek and the Colorado River, exploring, relaxing and experiencing the canyon from an entirely different perspective.

Phantom Ranch itself is lovely. I stayed in the dorm, which worked, but it was loud, everyone seemed to be awake around 4 AM, and I didn’t sleep particularly well. If you can snag a private cabin, I’d choose it.

Another option — and perhaps my ideal way to experience the bottom of the canyon — is camping at Bright Angel Campground, just a short walk from Phantom Ranch.

And if mule duffel service is available for your trip, use it! A lighter pack leaves more energy for enjoying the canyon.

Permits & Cancellations

Getting a permit or Phantom Ranch reservation can be challenging, but don’t give up.

I found mine through a fairly last-minute cancellation. I was only looking for space for myself, which made things easier, but a friend ultimately managed to find last-minute availability and join me as well.

So keep checking!

Smaller groups have better odds, and cancelled backcountry permits can reappear online. Bright Angel Campground requires a backcountry permit, while Phantom Ranch lodging is reserved separately.

The reservation system has changed over the years, so always check the current National Park Service information rather than relying on older strategies for obtaining walk-up permits.

Weather — Choose Your Season Carefully

Timing matters enormously for this hike because conditions at the rim and at the bottom of the canyon can be dramatically different.

Summer is simply too hot for me to recommend this trip. Temperatures at river level can become dangerously high, and much of South Kaibab is completely exposed.

Winter presents the opposite problem. Snow and ice can linger on the steep upper portions of the trails. Experienced winter hikers equipped for icy conditions may tackle it with traction devices, but if you don’t want to deal with spikes or crampon-style traction, choose another season.

Spring and fall are the sweet spots, while still requiring careful attention to the actual forecast and current trail conditions.

Want a Big Day Hike Instead? Go to Skeleton Point

You don’t need to hike all the way to the river to have a phenomenal South Kaibab experience.

Skeleton Point makes an outstanding destination for strong day hikers: approximately 6 miles round trip with 2,040 feet of elevation change.

You’ll pass Ooh Aah Point and Cedar Ridge before continuing along the increasingly dramatic ridgeline to Skeleton Point, where you’ll get your first view of the Colorado River.

For hikers who don’t have an overnight permit — or simply aren’t ready to commit to climbing nearly a vertical mile out of the canyon — this is an exceptionally worthy adventure in its own right.

Just remember the Grand Canyon rule: going down is optional. Coming back up isn’t.

Staying at Mather Campground

I like to make this a multi-day Grand Canyon trip and camp at Mather Campground on the South Rim. It’s a large campground, but I’ve generally found the individual sites pleasantly private and have always had positive experiences there.

For my Phantom Ranch trip, I simply left my campsite set up while I spent the night below the rim. That gave me a comfortable home base before and after the hike without having to pack everything up.

Most importantly, don’t rush this adventure. Start early, give yourself time and savor the experience.

You waited a long time to get to the bottom of the Grand Canyon.

Take your time getting back out.

Plan Your Adventure

Backcountry permits & Bright Angel Campground: Grand Canyon Backcountry Permits

Phantom Ranch lodging & cabins: Phantom Ranch

Current trail conditions, water & hiking safety: Grand Canyon Hike Smart

Trail distances & elevation: Grand Canyon Backcountry Trail Distances

Bright Angel Campground & corridor camping:https://www.nps.gov/grca/planyourvisit/campsite-information.htm

Mather Campground reservations: Recreation.gov